FOOD REVIEW: Padonia Station

While I could write about Mediterranean food all day and could spend hours debating the intricacies of the perfect piece of sushi, there is one genre of food that I tend to shy away from—bar food. 

You see it’s not a case of not being a fan as God knows I’ve spent many a night munching on salty fried treats, but more so it’s that bar food falls into a category all its own. Usually a glass of wine or a beer serves as a compliment to my steak, but in the case of bar food the exact opposite is true.  So, in the name of trying something new, I decided what better place to start then one of Timonium’s most frequented waterholes, .

Serving as the anchor of the Padonia Village Shopping Center, Padonia Station has long been a staple of the Timonium bar scene.  The décor at Padonia is pretty much what you would expect of a place that labels itself “Bar, Grille, and Games.”  The lights are kept dim, the walls are lined with sports memorabilia, and at every turn there is a television playing local and national games.  Padonia features five different bars to choose from as well as a selection of video bar games, live music on stage, and pool tables to keep customers occupied.

With so much attention on the bar scene at Padonia, naturally I wasn’t completely convinced that the dining options would be top shelf, but when the menu arrived I was surprised to see a relatively extensive and interesting selection of dinner options. 

Sure the menu included all of your classic bar foods such as wing platters and a selection of burgers, but it also included some original and creative selections such as buffalo chicken eggrolls or barbecue pulled pork potato skins.  Even the entrée list had me raising an eyebrow in the name of ambition with selections of chicken and fish dinners that were far more reminiscent of a sit down establishment.

I’ve spent enough time in kitchens to know that there is an art using your menu to make dull food sound delicious, and thus I’m never too quick to give out praises until I sample an item first hand.  Sure blackened tuna steak sounds great on paper but usually once you try it you realize why the chef needed to coat the fish in spices.  Unfortunately at Padonia station, menu hubris was in full effect.  The aforementioned buffalo eggrolls consisted of deli sliced chicken wrapped in a soggy eggroll skin and served dripping wet with what must have been a pound of grease. 

The same was true for the pork skins, which were a little more than a pile of passable pork resting on potato skins that were decidedly past their prime.  Even the wings, which are given a whole menu page themselves, were okay at best and again the art of crispy frying eluded the chef.  I will admit that the sandwich I ordered was tasty, but it was also over-salted and again my French fries were a sad show.

I know a lot of people will say that I’m expecting too much, but I have to say I don’t think I’m being unreasonable. 

Yes, bar food is in effect just a means by which to slow the inebriation process and satisfy some drunk munchies, but that doesn’t mean it can’t still be good.  I’ve had better meals at bars that make a whole lot less money than Padonia Station and while they may not offer the fanfare that Padonia does, they simply take the time to do food well.  I promise you, frying an eggroll is not a difficult task, but when food becomes an afterthought, simple things start to get swept under the rug.

So, I don’t want to indict Padonia Station for neglecting their customers as the truth is they put on one of the better shows in town.  Padonia Station knows its strengths and highlights them. The live bands are chosen well, the entertainment and hospitality are always good, and they take great efforts in keeping customers satisfied.  Add to that daily drink specials and happy hour gimmicks such as Oyster Shooter Thursdays, and you have a recipe for a pretty surefire nightspot. 

I guess the moral here is to take Padonia for what it is, a bar.  If you’re looking for a great place to drink and have fun then Padonia has you covered, just remember to eat dinner before you go.